New Orleans: A (Hectic) Symphony of Sights, Sounds, and Flavors

There’s a reason New Orleans is often called one of America’s most unique cities. From the moment you step onto its historic streets, you’re enveloped in a vibrant tapestry of culture, music, and incredible food. But accessible and relaxing, not even a little bit! My recent trip was no exception, a whirlwind of unforgettable experiences that left me exhausted, bloated, and smiling from ear to ear.

French Quarter Charm and Culinary Delights

Our base for this adventure was the HOLIDAY INN FRENCH QUARTER-CHATEAU LEMOYNE. Tucked away just off the bustling main streets. The courtyard was a serene oasis, and the location meant we were just steps away from all the action, yet able to retreat to a quiet haven. And we did a lot of retreating! I highly recommend a peaceful yet convenient get-away allowing you to tackle the crowds of tourists for a few minutes and then recharge.

Joe and I by the NOLA sign

No trip to New Orleans is complete without diving into its legendary food scene, and we hit the ground running. Our first stop for a true local experience was Gallier's Seafood & Oyster Bar. The oysters were incredibly fresh, Joe got the sampler. Their seafood was a revelation, I ordered a simple shrimp Cesar but it was full of flavor! I also had a little bowl of red beans and rice because… New Orleans. Oh dear, that was bomb! It’s the kind of unpretentious, delicious spot that truly captures the spirit of Creole and Cajun cooking.

Restaurant entrance

Of course, we couldn't resist the allure of Café du Monde for some iconic beignets and café au lait. It’s a bustling, open-air institution, and while there’s usually a line, the powdered sugar goodness is absolutely worth the wait. There is absolutely no room at this venue for wheelchairs or extra space for canes. It’s tight and crowded and you are lucky to even sit at a table.

Tip: Wait in the long line for the bathroom. You get to watch the beignets being made and powdered. It’s a sight.

Loads of powdered sugar

Dining at Commander's Palace was an absolute dream. This iconic Garden District restaurant is a New Orleans institution, known for its exquisite Haute Creole cuisine and impeccable service. From the turtle soup to the bread pudding soufflé, every dish was a masterpiece. The decor was obviously higher end but I personally don’t know anyone that decorates in that much floral and pink. We were in a room up this extremely narrow and steep stairs. None of that seemed to matter when we tried the 25 cent (yes, a quarter) martinis. Joe had the stuffed quail and I had a chicken leg. Sound basic? No way! I can’t even describe how good the sauce and flavors were! It's a splurge, but one that’s truly unforgettable. It was Joe’s birthday so totally worth it.

Birthday boy with his qual dinner

Although not traditionally New Orleans food, we visited a hidden gem for lunch, SUN CHONG. This unassuming spot served up some incredible, Asian fusion food, a welcome and surprising contrast to all the Creole and Cajun flavors we’d been enjoying. It just goes to show that New Orleans' culinary scene is diverse and full of delightful surprises.

sushi appetizer

Music, Art, and Southern Grandeur

New Orleans is synonymous with music, and we made sure to soak it all in. The Frenchmen Art Market was a fantastic find, a vibrant night market where local artists display their incredible creations. For a more intimate jazz experience, we spent an evening at Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro right across the street. This legendary venue offers world-class live jazz in a cozy setting, and it was one of the highlights of the trip. We were able to grab 7:30pm tickets to GRAMMY award-winning trombonist Delfeayo Marsalis and the Uptown Jazz Orchestra. The house was packed and I was a bit disappointed to sit in the balcony but they ended up being the best seats in the house. There's nothing quite like hearing those soulful notes in the city where it all began. One evening, we decided to take in a show at the beautifully restored Saenger Theatre. We were able to get John Legend tickets in this grand, historic venue that only seats 2600. It was intimate and magical. The theater was elegant and convenient. It was a truly special experience.

Historic theater

To explore beyond the French Quarter, we hopped on the historic St. Charles streetcar. Gliding past the grand mansions of the Garden District and under ancient oak trees was like stepping back in time. It’s a wonderfully scenic and affordable way to see a different side of the city.

Riverwalk

Looking at it a different way

New Orleans has a famously haunted past, and we couldn't resist a small group haunted carriage tour. We were expecting a knowledgeable guide to regale us with chilling tales of ghosts and Voodoo, adding an eerie and fascinating dimension to the city's history as we clip-clopped through the dimly lit streets. But what we got was a canned speech that we could barely hear with an occasional “that place is haunted” thrown in. I don’t think this event is very different than the regular carriage rides offered in the Quarter. It was nice to see the streets from that view.

Jazz cruise

While we didn’t spend much time on the traditional Bourbon Street, we did our fair share of walking around shops. Some stores had steep steps without handrails and we saw bars advertising that the bouncer would bring a temporary ramp for accessibility. The streets are old, uneven, crowded and dirty. The city is amazing, but just know there are some things you just won’t get around.

We visited Vue Orleans which is a 34-story observatory and interactive cultural exhibit located in the former World Trade Center building. It offers 360-degree indoor and outdoor views of the city, along with immersive historical experiences that explore New Orleans' culture, food, music, and civil rights history. Visitors can learn through interactive displays like a ship navigation simulator and even watch a short film during the elevator ride. The 34th floor cafe is just a little more than a snack shack. It was too bad because the view is amazing. I could have really gone for a nice French pastry and mimosa in a cozy booth.

Hotel courtyard

For a different perspective of the city, we embarked on the Creole Queen Dinner Jazz Cruise. Drifting down the Mississippi River with live jazz music playing and the city lights twinkling in the distance was incredibly romantic and offered stunning views of the skyline. The buffet dinner wasn’t bad either.

My trip to New Orleans was an intoxicating blend of history, music, incredible food, and unforgettable experiences. It was exciting and I need a relaxing vacation after my vacation. It’s a city that truly awakens the senses and leaves a lasting impression.